"I'd learned that life can be borne alone," he wrote. E' difficile dire se la notizia abbia già raggiunto Reinhold: il celebre alpinista è infatti di nuovo nel Tibet, dove sta preparando un' ennesima spedizione, destinata a portarlo alla conquista degli ultimi "ottomila" che mancano al suo carnet. And Max said, 'If Günther is found on the Diamir Face, we are sheepsheads and liars.' Four days later, Reinhold appeared on the other side of the mountain, at the foot of the western, Diamir Face, which is encrusted with hanging glaciers and seracs (precariously poised blocks of ice) that are forever breaking off and causing avalanches. Nanga is in the Himalayas, in Pakistan, near the Kashmir border. Among the excised material was the "special page," as Messner called it, an addition to von Kienlin's diary detailing Messner's supposed confession that he left his brother on the summit. Siegfried, il fratello precipitato l' altro ieri dalla torre di Vajolet, sembrava il più prudente dei tre Messner. Demeter went on several of Messner's expeditions, but it was boring for her sitting at Base Camp and watching 30 men climbing up and down. Günther had started hallucinating during the night, fighting with Messner for a nonexistent blanket as they huddled together on the Merkl Gap, and was barely able to walk. After that, Messner was spat on in the street. Without an oxygen tank, you start to experience "rapture of the heights." This was not a new accusation. But in 1970, Messner was 26 years old and still unknown outside the small community of European extreme rock climbers. "No one has seen this, not even the judge," he told me. They are Between Light and Shadow: The Messner Tragedy on Nanga Parbat, by Hans Saler, and The Traverse: Günther Messner's Death on Nanga Parbat—Expedition Members Break Their Silence, by Max von Kienlin, neither of which has appeared in English. Young Reinhold began to think that blind obedience, the Führer principle, was the tragic flaw of German culture—a conviction that was reinforced when he learned about the Holocaust. By 1986 he would complete climbs of the 14 highest mountains in the world—all the "eight-thousanders," 8,000 meters (26,240 feet) or more. To understand what this was really all about, Messner explained, I had to go back to the Nanga Parbat expedition that the German Alpine Club sponsored in 1934. A few days later, von Kienlin says, Baur contacted him and asked him to defend the group against Messner's claim of being bad comrades. The bodies that could be recovered were brought down wrapped in flags with swastikas, and from then on Nanga became synonymous with the idea of Kameradschaft. But in their looks I don't see criticism but appreciation. "Reinhold thinks he can get up Everest without oxygen? Using a new route on the northwest face, he reached the summit with Kammerlander on 24 April. Werner Herzog, another German obsessive, made a stark film called Scream of Stone, about a fictional triangle based on Demeter and two climbers, one or both of whom could be Messner. A year after they had returned from Nanga, von Kienlin's wife, Uschi Demeter, ran off with Reinhold, who had spent months recuperating from the expedition at their home. In December 2003, Messner took me to his stunningly sited castle, in Juval, South Tyrol, on a knoll guarding the head of the Schnalstal Valley, which was one of the main routes north through this part of the Alps for a bunch of armies, from Charlemagne's to Napoleon's. When we reach the foot of the mountain, the punished porter comes close to me and thanks me with folded hands and remains by my side and does not leave me any more. In 2002 he revisited the subject in his book The Naked Mountain. Some of the best climbers in the world stopped their ascents and watched through binoculars, aghast, as Messner hacked his way up Les Droites, then regarded as the most difficult ice wall on earth, in only four hours. Nobody helped us up there. In 1985, Messner topped out on Annapurna. He met his wife, Annemarie, in a café in Baden-Baden; she had waited on him then and had since taken to the role of the modest, adoring wife of a nobleman. He was a few inches shorter and hadn't been able to put in the same hours of practice and training because of his job as a bank clerk. Günther was very strong, but his rock climbing was not at the Spider-Man level of Reinhold's. "I built it between 2000 and 2003, and for five years I have been paying the teacher. Fifteen thousand feet of mostly exposed rock from top to bottom, it is the highest vertical wall on earth. "I did not say 'if Günther's body is found on the Diamir side' but 'where Reinhold said it was,'" he told me, adding that he is about to come out with another book, advancing his new theory—that Günther had been abandoned at the top of the Diamir Face. "He was the real hero of the story then," Messner told me. Von 1990 bis 1994 war Messner Präsident der Bezirksgemeinschaft Eisacktal. (Messner denies this charge, saying, "Nobody would leave his brother or anybody dying, but in the case of no possibility, you are not going to sit beside a dead man and die yourself. Eisendle found a human femur a kilometer and a half below where Messner had last seen him, but it was very long—longer than Reinhold's femur, and Günther was several inches shorter than his brother—so Hubert said it couldn't be Günther's. This was proof, von Kienlin argued, that the two brothers did not go down the Diamir Face together. Once, Reinhold found Günther cowering in the dog kennel, unable to get up because he had been whipped so badly. Reinhold Messner secured his status as the most phenomenal mountaineer of all time in 1978, when he and his Tyrolean countryman Peter Habeler became the first climbers ever to reach the top of Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen. In der Regionalregierung fungierte Messner bis 1996 erneut als Assessor für Grundbuch- und Katasterwesen. Messner took the bone home and kept it in his castle and didn't think much about it until the fall of 2003, when he went back to Ser, and the villagers showed him photographs of the Pakistani climber's body, which they had since found there with both femurs intact. The leader of the 1934 expedition was a man named Willy Merkl. Reinhold quickly demonstrated that he was the strongest climber, and on June 27, after days of being snowbound by a blizzard, the death of one of the porters, and other setbacks, the expedition had one last chance to make the summit: it all came down to Messner making a solo dash up the last 3,000 feet from Camp Five. Reinhold had gone ahead to pick the safest route across the avalanche chutes, while Günther staggered behind or sat resting until he got the O.K. This happens in the "death zone," above around 23,000 feet. to leave others if it is a question of your own survival. Built from the fifth century through the Renaissance, it was the original seat of the Herzogs, or dukes, of Tyrol, and was in ruins when Messner bought it for $30,000 in 1983; it is now fully restored and worth millions. Reinhold and Günther had done easily a thousand climbs together, starting as little boys in their valley in South Tyrol, a German-speaking enclave at the border of Austria and Italy that has been under Italian rule since the First World War. Inside he had tremendous anger, but he couldn't express it, so he took it out on us." In 1980, Messner and Demeter got back together, but it didn't work. He waited there for Günther, but Günther didn't come. Coming home without Günther was the most difficult moment in Reinhold's life. "Reinhold never made a move until he had studied the weather conditions," says Doug Scott, one of the top Himalayan climbers of Messner's era, "and when everything was right, he went for it and pulled it off because of his phenomenal fitness.". Johann was born on May 17 1880, in … In May 1970, the expedition's 22 climbers and their teams of high-altitude porters began working their way up the Rupal Face, setting up tent camps along the way. Stava scalando con Reinhold il Nanga Parbat, quando una valanga li travolse. He's crazy," a local barfly would say, and Joseph would tell him, "You wait and see." He prepared a statement and sent it to all the important newspapers and magazines in Germany, Austria, and South Tyrol, saying that Messner's former comrades were breaking their silence about what had really happened: Messner left his brother on the summit or on the Merkl Gap, an icy notch above the Merkl Couloir, and had been planning the traverse all along. The court's handwriting analyst recently determined that she cannot accurately gauge when the special page was written, except to say that it was most likely sometime before 2002. I did a lot of climbing in my teens—enough that I became the youngest person to make several ascents in the Alps. But five years later a Japanese scientist presented evidence that had brought him, quite independently, to a similar conclusion. Von Kienlin argued that Messner had been shouting down not to Kuen and Scholz but to Günther, who was somewhere below him on the Rupal Face. Now he longed for an opportunity to tackle the big boys: the 14 eight-thousanders in Central Asia—in the Himalayan, Karakoram, Hindu Kush, and Pamir ranges. He was his factotum, his grunt, and he already owed Reinhold for even being on the expedition. Mummery had been missing for more than a hundred years. I also wondered whether he would have absentmindedly stuck something as crucial as the special page in a scrapbook of press stories about the expedition (which he showed me) and forgotten about it until 2002, when he started writing the book and "accidentally discovered it." In the afternoon comes the sirdar, the head of the porters, and thanks me again. Van Kienlin claimed this had nothing to do with it; the marriage was already over. Maybe we should all undergo a little oxygen deprivation. We stopped to pick up Uschi Demeter, who was living in a farmhouse she and Messner had purchased for a song and fixed up in 1971, after she left von Kienlin. "I stood up to my father, and after I was 10 he never touched me.". When he came down from the Diamir Face he was completely strung out. "There is still no final answer from the court in Hamburg," he told me, referring to von Kienlin's appeal of the 2003 ruling which required him to delete the special page and other contested passages from his book. Non si sa cosa abbia indotto Siegfried a violare questa legge non scritta ma ugualmente importante. When Günther asked for a two-month leave of absence to go on the expedition, the bank wouldn't give it to him, so he gave his notice. And that's exactly what they are. But it is possible he doesn't know himself what happened. 1994 rückte er für Siegfried Brugger, der für das italienische Abgeordnetenhaus kandidierte, in den Landtag und Regionalrat nach, denen er bis 2003 angehörte. He became the local schoolteacher and married an intelligent, kindhearted local woman named Maria. And I had to reconstruct what happened from that. How, I asked, had he reconstructed the polished, lengthy diary included in the book from notes on scraps of paper? Eccellente rocciatore, aveva preferito non avventurarsi troppo oltre i confini delle due Dolomiti. Reinhold Messner pronunțat în germană /ˈʁaɪ̯nhɔlt ˈmɛsnɐ/ (n. 17 septembrie 1944, Brixen, Tirolul de Sud) este un montaniard, alpinist și explorator montan italian din regiunea Tirolul de Sud din Italia.. Messner este adesea considerat drept cel mai mare explorator și cățărător montan al tuturor timpurilor. But there was a sheer cliff between them, making it impossible to reach the Messners. Divisione Stampa Nazionale — GEDI Gruppo Editoriale S.p.A. - P.Iva 00906801006. Also on the expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach the summit. When he read in the paper that Herrligkoffer was leading an expedition up the Rupal Face, he arranged to come along as a paying guest. This had been his real transgression, I was starting to think. Or maybe it was that of a Pakistani climber who was lost at the bottom of the Diamir Face in the 80s. They were in big trouble. Memories become fixed along certain lines. La scuola è infatti stata in pratica affidata a Siegfried, che è anche presidente delle guide alpine dell' Alto Adige. Siegfried era precipitato l' altro ieri pomeriggio per una ventina di metri lungo la torre Stabeler, la cuspide centrale delle tre che formano il gruppo di Vajolet, nelle Dolomiti altoatesine. Reinhold, quella volta, riuscì a tornare al campo-base dopo una marcia solitaria durata due giorni e una notte. The special page had been reproduced on the back endpapers of the first edition of the book but was gone from the second. He was also alone. It was his father who pushed Reinhold to get Günther invited on the Nanga Parbat expedition. In 1974, Kuen committed suicide, for reasons not related to Nanga Parbat. In essence, Messner was being accused of fratricide. It was Günther, who was supposed to be stringing fixed ropes in the couloir to ease Reinhold's descent. I shit on flags." He has a castle, a vineyard, and several small farms in South Tyrol. When, midway up the face, they got word that the Field Marshal was thinking of aborting the assault because he was having doubts about its success, they told Gerhard Baur and von Kienlin that they would stay and do it themselves—and maybe even go down the Diamir Face. "My father lost the ground under his feet with the war," Messner told me, "and he was very insecure. "I said, 'Someday, maybe not in my lifetime, my brother will be found on the Diamir Face.' The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. Von Kienlin and Messner have a tumultuous history. We also found one of his boots. von Kienlin answered. Messner has a yak farm near the glacier that is now the site of an "ice museum," where people can experience the world of glaciers. At last Reinhold reached safety, jumping off the lowest glacier into a grassy meadow. Von Kienlin's book includes 80 pages of his diary entries. Buhl ended up taking off for the summit alone, and Herrligkoffer sued him for disobeying orders and writing his own book. "Reinhold is ambitious, like Caesar," the baron said. © 2020 Condé Nast. "Reinhold went up on the glaciers, and he did not come back and he did not come back and there were avalanches coming all day long," Demeter told me. In 2001, a new biography of Herrligkoffer was presented at the club's museum in Munich, and Messner, who had written the foreword, was asked to say a few words. That year, in a mountain hut, Messner met a pixie-like Austrian woman 18 years his junior named Sabine Stehle, and they have been together ever since. The books by von Kienlin and Saler came out a few months after they made their public statement, in 2003. As Messner writes in The White Loneliness, his second book about Nanga Parbat, published in 2003, "We had a choice between waiting for death and going out to meet it.". The Field Marshal, as the brothers nicknamed him, tried to separate them and put them on different ropes, but they refused. The fastest ascent until then had taken three days; three previous expeditions had met with disaster and death. He didn't trust his footing. Picking a way up thousands of feet of sheer rock is like designing a large, complicated building, and Messner's lines were elegant and innovative. Starting in 1963, the best German climbers had pitted themselves against it. It was first made by the leader of the expedition, Karl Maria Herrligkoffer, who was attacked upon his return for not going to look for the Messners on the Diamir side. A metà parete il temporale che incombeva si è scatenato e la cordata è stata costretta a far marcia indietro. He's crazy," a local barfly would say, and Joseph would tell him, "You wait and see." "But he was a strong, gifted sportsman, and he wanted to get to the top as much as Reinhold did. They are both free spirits. A doctor, Herrligkoffer regarded the climbers as little more than chess pieces to be moved up and down the mountain from his command center at Base Camp. Von Kienlin said that they had agreed to keep what really happened secret, for Reinhold's sake. "No one leaves a man unless there is a problem," he told me. BOLZANO - Siegfried Messner, trentacinque anni, fratello minore del più famoso Reinhold, è stato operato ieri mattina in Austria, nella clinica universitaria di Innsbruck, specializzata in traumatologia cranica. Not having to bang in pitons (thin metal wedges to secure protective ropes), or rappel back down each pitch to pick them up, saved him a lot of time and energy. He said nothing about the controversy for years, but in 2000 he agreed to help his comrades, he says, after being approached by Baur and Winkler. Saler was unable to substantiate his allegations, and his publisher withdrew his book. Just the boot and a sentence by Ernst Jünger: 'In history the truth always wins.'". (Von Kienlin is not actually a baron, but his lineage is impressive.) La storia dei fratelli Messner è quella di una famiglia di veri e propri appassionati della montagna. We spent three hours going over every word and discussing each point. "It's very Wagnerian. My own Keller is too stuffed with carpets and paintings. Since then, only a handful of climbers have matched these superhuman feats of endurance and survival. When Reinhold returned to South Tyrol from his triumph on the Rupal Face, some local politicians had gathered a crowd to give him a hero's welcome. After von Kienlin's book came out, another member of the expedition, Gerhard Baur, came forth and said that Messner had also told him he was planning to do the traverse. It is not hard to understand why Messner fell for her, and she for him. Max von Kienlin lives on Kaulbachstrasse, in a nice but not fancy part of Munich. According to Messner, Gerhard Baur and another surviving member of the expedition, Jürgen Winkler, who had come to the book party, jumped to their feet and said, "This is an outrage." One slip and it was 15,000 feet to the valley floor, and they didn't have a rope, so there was no way Reinhold could hold him. The brothers reached the summit late in the afternoon and shook hands, as they always did. Messner hates rules and Teutonic nationalism. In 2000, Messner took his brother Hubert, a doctor, to Nanga with an alpine guide named Hanspeter Eisendle and two other climbers.


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